![]() Maybe for a cabinet back, maybe attaching slats to battens. I'd have a hard time saying one is doing more of the work.īringing things back to staples, how many different joints can you think of using staples? Most of the time, I've seen them used in a lap joint when attaching a thin board to a thicker one. If you glue and screw a lap joint, friction and glue are working together evenly. That's one of the reasons woodworkers can get away with weak brass screws. Screws throw things off a bit when used in shear (which is actually the way they should be used most of the time), because most of their holding power is in the form of friction between the two parts, not in load taken up directly by the screw. This is most especially true with pocket holes, since they tend to be quite stretchy and flexible joints if you use them structurally. When you have both glue and nails on that joint, the glue often has to fail before the boards can shift enough to apply load to the nails. If you nail through a lap joint, the boards have to shift slightly (maybe imperceptibly) before the nails can resist the load, whereas a stiff glue joint resists the motion much earlier. Because most glue is stiffer than most woods and most metals, it takes up load first. Materials only apply a force when they experience a strain (they only push back once you push on them). Once you get to pocket holes, staples, and nails, the role of glue changes. The glue in those joints really is just to keep things from shifting, and when the joint is loaded in the intended direction, force is transferred directly between the fibers of the two boards, as a compression load on some part of the joint. We started with staples, so we're not talking about joints which mechanically interface the two boards, like your first four examples. It kinda feels like you're moving the goalposts on me. When you want to carry a 17’ kayak inside a 6’ wide teardrop camper. My wife said she could never tell if I was on a call in our home office.Ī parcel box I made so any parcels can be left somewhere safe if I'm outįound this cool stick. I'm working on a Korean restaurant in Seoul. Hello everyone! I am a Korean carpenter living in Korea. Nature's Beauty Support r/woodworking users! Please familiarize yourself with them before posting or commenting. Excellent resources for basic questions: our wiki and this Google search. We prioritize content which benefits the community (your projects, plans, how-to's, experience sharing, discussions) over that which primarily benefits the individual (FAQ's, "Does anyone else.", rants). It might seem pricey.but like I said, it's a year's+ worth of adhesive for me, and if you add up what you'd pay for something like the double syringe type epoxies.Check out the Frequently Asked Questions which includes answers to common questions and links to other resources Content Philosophy When I was at full production, that was enough to last me a year+. and go to the FIFTH item down the page.you will see a listing for 28oz of resin, and 7 oz of hardener. ![]() My recommendation is to buy the graduated mixing cups that Brownells sells, and use those.you will quickly get used to how it's mixed. DO NOT TRY THAT WITH ACRAGLAS! If you get off on the ratio, Acraglas will get to the consistency of chewed chewing gum.and never any harder. AND.YOU HAVE TO BE PRETTY DARN CLOSE TO THAT MIX RATIO! With regular 2-part epoxy, some folks will mix in more hardener to make it cure faster. Acraglas is mixed 1 part hardener, to 4 parts resin. There is a difference in how it's mixed versus traditional 2-part epoxies. In the future, I'm sure something better will come out, but for right now, there is no other adhesive that beats acraglas in term of shelf life, hold life, and durability. it's the ONLY adhesive that I use on knives. ![]()
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